NOTE: This tip is most-helpful if you print as “grab-able” build plate temperatures (these will vary person to person). If your build plate temp is 110C, it is probably not a good idea to just grab that when the print finishes. Please keep safety in mind when working with 3D printers, as far as they've come, they're all still dangerous uncaring machines.

If you can afford it (or if you can add it to a published Amazon Wish List, buying a second build plate can shave some time off of your production. Instead of fiddling with:

• Cooling the whistles
• Removing them from the plate
• Testing the whistles
• Doing inventory
• Plate-cleaning
• And then starting the next print

You could:

• Grab the “done” plate and set it aside
• Put in the spare plate
• Start the next print
• Continue fiddling with the “done” plate while your printer zooms in the background!

• Bambu Labs
• Prusa
• Snapmaker
• Anycubic

Please add your recommendations here!

• Juupine GECO (Amazon: X1/P1/A1, H2D/H2S, others sizes in links): PLA only, but does not require bed heat for good adhesion. Useful to reduce energy usage or make your printers not be space heaters (If ambient temperature is ⇐ 20C, heat to at least 20C). Has a finer texture (similar to “satin” plates) than gold TexPEI. Very important to let cool before removing prints - can remove surface if not careful. Do not use brims on this plate.
• Fysetc Cryonix (Amazon: H2D/H2S, X1/A1/P1) Has a finer texture (similar to “satin” plates), better PLA adhesion, and less PETG overadhesion than gold TexPEI plates. Can drop PLA bed temps ~10C and retain adhesion
• Biqu Cryogrip Glacier (Amazon X1/P1/A1, H2D/H2S, other sizes available in links): Similar to the Cryonix - finer texture, better PLA Adhesion, less PETG overadhesion than TexPEI plates. Can drop PLA bed temps ~10C and retain adhesion.